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Wednesday, March 24, 2021

Medieval Turnshoes

I made these shoes to be able to be worn with case greaves and sabatons, so I was limited in the style and height which the shoes could be. The design I chose was based on the Hedeby type 6 shoes from the Hedeby archaeological site in Germany.

The first step was creating the sole. To make the sole, I traced my foot over a piece of cardboard and added some extra room in the toe. I then cut it out of a piece of 9oz veg-tan leather and mirrored it for the other foot.
The vamp and quarter were the most difficult pieces. To make them, I placed the sole under my foot and wrapped it in plastic wrap and then covered it with duct tape. I cut my foot out and used it for the pattern. 
One mistake I made that I would recommend others not do is have a curve that will cause the leather to pull back. On the photo above, the far right seam of the quarter is curved....leave it straight! The leather will stretch and conform to the shape of the foot.
I backstitched the entire shoe, as I do with all my leather items, using artificial sinew for the extra strength and durability.
The next step was the tongue, which I should have sewn onto the vamp before I attached it to the sole. It's very simple, just a rounded rectangle secured at the opening.
 To help increase the durability, I closed the seams and covered the sole with a flexible rubber-like coating.
To finish them off, I cut holes in the opening for laces, and while there are many different styles of lace patterns, I decided to go with the simple cross lacings.
While the shoes came out somewhat more pointed than I would like, I hope I can remedy this by soaking the toe and inserting a boot form. Beyond that, the shoes are comfortable and functional and are suited well to their use.

Chalkis Type I Brigandine


The body armor I am making is based on this Italian example in the Metropolitan Museum. It is a kind of brigandine which features a split version of a style of breastplate, called a goblose breastplate, which featured prominently from the late 14th into the 15th centuries. Also called a corazzinas (though I can find no historical source for this name), it is one of two complete brigandines found in the so called "Chalkis Hoard," named for the castle on the Greek Island of Euboea, a powerful Venetian outpost in the late middle ages. Of course, I will be taking some creative liberties and making what I feel to be improvements on the design, particularly in the skirt, which underwent some "reworking" in the 1920's.
I started with a very large sheet of 14 gauge mild steel. Before I even cut the metal, I made the entire suit out of cardboard and sized it that way. 

The first piece I made was the split globose breastplate; these were by far the two largest pieces of the armor and took quite a bit of pounding to dish to shape. I was constantly sizing and checking. There is about a two centimeter overlap on the plates, and both were flared out slightly at the bottom. the backplate goes down to just below my shoulder blades and will have nine more plates that will move the same way as my back.
Unlike the example above, I chose to make the skirt out of horizontal lames. I made this out of cardboard before cutting it out of metal as well. The lames have about a centimeter and a half of overlap, and I test fitted them by holding them together with duct tape.
This was the test fit of the front two sections. The breastplate goes just below my ribs so that I can bend and flex, and I will continue to add lames to go just blow my hips.
Though I found no historical examples of the two plates just under the arms,  I found several examples of the backplates with the curved shapes cut out near the armpits, and the three plates at the waist are flared on both sides.
Once I completed shaping the plates, I drilled holes for the rivets, a centimeter away from the edge, in all the places where the plates will be riveted to the covering. I did not drill the holes for the straps yet, since they need to be sized precisely and will be marked after the three sections are complete. Before I covered the plates, I sprayed them with a protective paint to prevent rust from forming.
For the covering, I looked at several examples, both historical and reproductions. While many I see have covering such as linen, wool, and reinforced velvet, the one that attracted my eye was a beautiful reproduction of a Munich style Brigandine which was covered in black suede. For rivets I used galvanized roofing nails and small washers on the back.
For straps I could have used veg-tan leather, but instead I chose a more durable leather called latigo. Latigo comes from the Spanish word for whip, and it's durable yet supple qualities make it the perfect tan to use for straps.
For the front and side straps, I cut the straps to three-quarter inches wide, but for the shoulders I made the straps a half inch wider to both support the weight and distribute the weight over a larger area on the shoulders.
Like the suede, the straps are connected by roofing nails which act as rivets.

In addition to the brigandine, I also made a set of voiders and skirt which act as supplementary armor both to fill in the gaps plate can't cover and protect the straps and lacing for plate arms and legs.
Assembled
Back and side view.

Thursday, March 11, 2021

Evolution of Armor: Ancient Egypt to 15th Century

For as long as humans have been fighting themselves, they have been trying to find ways to protect themselves from blows and creating new and powerful ways to kill as many people as efficiently as possible…

Egypt

There were four main types of weapons used by the Egyptians; the spear, the bow, the sword, and the axe. Egypt’s power was mostly during the Bronze Age, and iron was rare and extremely expensive. King Tutankhamen had one small iron dagger, and it was worth many times its weight in gold. The spears used by the ancient Egyptians were quite average. Most of the time they were a leaf-shaped bronze tip mounted on a shaft of what was probably cedar wood from Lebanon. Their axes were not like the axes we think of today, the handles were short with a long heat and a short blade, similar to the tomahawks that would appear much later. Their swords were probably the most iconic piece of their arsenal. Sometimes an Egyptian would carry a hooked sickle sword, called a khopesh. The khopesh was a secondary weapon meant to be used after one had lost his spear or bow. Along with the spear, the bow was widely used by the soldiers of Egypt. In the Old Kingdom, bows were relatively weak and made of a single branch, but by the New Kingdom, Egypt had adopted the compound bow, which was laminated with horn and animal sinew to increase its strength.

Due to the hot climate and ways in which battles were fought, Egyptian armor was all but nonexistent. Nearly all of the body protection of the Egyptians came from their shields. Egyptian shields were one of the earliest forms of tower shields and were made of cowhide stretched over a wood frame. Even this was sometimes abandoned due to it restricting the user on the use of their weapons. Sometimes a shield bearer would protect an archer, similar to how the Egyptians used chariots. However, even the chariots only protected the lower portion of the wearer leaving the upper portion exposed.

Greece

The weapons and armor of Greece show close resemblance as far as function, but the Greeks had two significant improvements; armor and cavalry. While the cavalry was used mostly by the Greeks of the north (such as the Macedonians), armor was used extensively by all Greek Hoplites. The Greek helmet underwent a drastic evolution, though the most iconic is the Corinthian helmet, which features long cheek and nose guards and often a decorative crest. Interestingly, this style of helmet seems to have endured through the ages. A very famous and protective example from the late fifteenth century, known as the Avant Armor, features a style of helmet called a barbute, which bears striking resemblance to the Corinthian helmet.

 

For body protection, Greece used two main types of vest. One is now called an anatomical cuirass. This is the hammered bronze armor, which is often embossed to resemble a muscular chest and appears often in modern cinema. The other type is called a linothorax. The linothorax was made of laminating several sheets of linen together. The linothorax was very popular due to its lightness, breathability, low cost, and comparable protective capability to the bronze breastplate. Sometimes little bronze scales would be sewn to it the increase its protective capability. To complete the set, one could also add beaten bronze greaves and bracers.

Much like the Egyptians, the Greeks relied heavily on the bow and spear. The sword was and always would be a secondary weapon until they fell out of use. Unlike the Egyptians, however, the Greeks learned to put the spear and shield to a better use with an advanced variant of the shield wall. Later the Macedonians would use several rows of soldiers and much longer spears, called pikes, to create a bristling wall of spearheads, called a phalanx. In a technique called the hammer and anvil, the phalanx would attack the middle, while the cavalry swooped in from behind, crushing the enemy on two fronts.

Rome

At Rome’s beginning, it would be very difficult to distinguish between a Greek and Roman soldier. The way they fought and were armed traditionally as hoplites was almost identical. Over time though, units became more specialized. On one hand, heavy infantry began to carry shields that were longer and oval shaped. The bronze breastplate was abandoned for coats of maille, called lorica hamatae, and linen armor became the norm and would remain so for years to come. With a lorica hamata, however, a form of padding was required, called a submaralis. This was an early form of what would eventually become the gambeson. Most of the development in the arsenal of the Roman infantryman was the shield. The shield steadily became more useful for formations, eventually evolving into the iconic tower shield known as the Scutum. The Scutum was suited almost exclusively to formations, and therefore of limited use in a one-on-one conflict.  The smaller oval shaped shield was still used for cavalry; however, unlike the Greeks, cavalry was never widely used. The armor continued to evolve, leading to the creation of a segmented plate armor called lorica segmentata, as well as a more ceremonial scale armor called lorica squamata.

Rome also utilized a lighter form of infantrymen. This soldier would carry a smaller, lighter shield and carry several throwing spears individually, called pilum. A pilum had a barbed head attached to a long metal bar with a weight in the middle. Even if the pilum happened to miss its target, when a pilum struck an enemy shield, it would stick and the soft iron rod would bend, making the shield unusable and leaving the owner defenseless.

To finish arming the Roman infantryman, he would need a helmet, sword, and dagger. The early Roman helmets were very similar to the late era Greek helmets. The tall point they came to eventually turned back into a semicircle, however the hanging cheek guards and flared back remained. With the addition of a rim above the eyes, it became known as a gala helmet. This was the helmet that, over time, would become the spangenhelm, the common ancestor of all medieval helmets.  Neither the Roman gladius, nor the dagger, called a pugio, underwent much evolution, though both were commonly used. Both consisted of a straight piece of sharpened metal, occasionally with a slight leaf shape to them, and were best suited to the stabbing type fighting used in a shield wall.

Byzantium

Byzantium was what remained after Rome’s western portion fell. It retained much of the influence western Rome had on it while also including some ideas from the east and north. For example, the Byzantines, unlike their Roman counterparts, relied heavily on cavalry, and the infantry was kept mostly out of tradition.

Weapons like the Greek xiphos came back into style, and showing influence from the east, a saber like sword became a new addition. Heavier weapons became more common also; long axes and maces began to be used. The renowned Varangian Guard, Norse mercenaries  who served as the emperors personal guard in peace time and Byzantium’s most elite unit during war, were feared for the long two handed axes they used.

While the plate armor of the Romans did not disappear during the time of Byzantium, it did undergo a drastic transformation. While opinions vary on why lorica segmentata fell out of use, it is clear that in Byzantium at least, lorica squamata and variations on its forms rose in popularity. Scales became larger and lamellar cuirasses, small plates of metal laced together with cord, called kilvanions, became popular among the wealthy. Maille, however, was still the primary form of protection, as it could be easily produced despite the extensive time it takes to make it.

Scandinavia

While the Byzantines held power over the south, the Norse sphere of influence was in the north. Following the trend set by the Romans and Byzantines, the Norse used almost entirely maille. Maille garments grew longer and longer, eventually becoming a hauberk, which covers the arms chest and upper legs. For head protection, a Norseman could choose between a helmet and a coif. If they were Vikings, they would often wear whatever happened to be the best thing they stole, and with the extensive colonization by the Norse, these items could be quite varied.

During the so-called Viking Era, weapons became more multi-purpose. Bearded axes that chopped wood were also tools of war. The type of knife known today as the seax, the original form of the modern Bowie, was carried by most as a utility knife and a defensive weapon. Weapons that were purely weapons, like the sword and spear, underwent very little evolution also. With the exception of a change in guard, the Viking age sword looked very similar to the late Roman cavalry spatha and would continue to do so until the late 12th century.

Medieval Europe


 

The medieval era is when armor underwent its most drastic changes and gained a great deal of variety. In the early Middle Ages, maille was used almost exclusively, but gradually as weapons improved, so did armor. It began with the advent of the coat of plates around the 13th century. Coats of plates were similar to the lorica segmentata, but improvements in design and metalworking technology allowed for larger plates and less constriction on the body shape and size of the wearer by riveting them to a sheet of fabric or leather. Plates became larger and smaller, forming the side or front opening versions of  the coat of plates, called brigandines. By the 14th century, a small but solid chest plate, known as a globose, had also evolved. Variation on combining these two armors created a great variety of styles. One form of brigandine, called the Wimbledon type, had a plate pattern that bore a striking resemblance to the lorica segmentata, while other forms like the Chalkis type 1 and Munich type brigandines featured forms of the globose while adding a skirt of plates to increase its protective capabilities.

As body armor improved, so did the armor for helmets and limbs. Greaves, which protected the knees, had a cuisse added which extends up to cover the thigh, as well as adding articulated joints, called polyens, on the knees, and cops on the arms. Pauldrons were added to the shoulders, and the full hauberk or smaller habergeon was often replaced by voiders; supplementary armor used to cover the places armor would restrict movement in.

Helmets grew to increasingly various shapes and sizes. In the 12th century people still used the basic nasal helm like the Vikings. By the 13th century, the crusader style topfhelm and larger greathelm were used, often on top of a cervelliere or bascinet helmet. Even though the great helm was largely abandoned after this century, it was still used in jousting due to its superior protective ability.   A variation known as the frog-mouth helm was used up until he 15th century, and a smaller form known as the sugarloaf helm was still used in combat.


 

The longest, and one of the most balanced helmets, the bascinet, came during the 14th century. This form of the bascinet was longer and covered more of the head than the previous form. It also had a visor that could flip down and cover the wearer’s face. The neck was still protected by a maille or scale aventail, often sewn to a padded liner. There were a variety of options a knight could chose for visors, such as the long pointed houndskull, the flatter more comfortable klappvisor, and some even chose to use only a nasal piece for better breathability and sight.

Weapons and shields underwent a very clear and consistent evolution during the Middle Ages. Steadily, shields grew smaller and smaller, while weapons grew longer and more oriented to thrusting rather than cutting. It started with the arming sword. The arming sword was a direct evolution of the Viking

age sword and similar in use.  Its one handed broad nature made it effective used with a shield, often a classic heater shape. There were some differences though. The pommel was smaller, to allow for more wrist movement, and the guard was larger, offering more protection. With the advent of the coat of plates, the swords steadily became more pointed until the fifteenth century, when most swords were used exclusively for thrusting. Soon the shield was abandoned completely, with knights relying purely on the effectiveness of their armor for protection, and two-handed weapons like the longsword were adopted.  Fourteenth and fifteenth century longswords, like the type XVIa and XVIIIb, were fast, versatile, and very effective about finding gaps in armor, but they required a certain amount of skill to use and they were rather poor at defending against heavier weapons like polearms.

Polearms were primary weapons in a battle, as well as the lance, if a knight was mounted. Men at arms, with very little experience, could effectively wield weapons like a bill or a glaive in a pike type formation or on their own. For people with more training, a six-foot polearm, such as a poleaxe or pole hammer, could smash through an opponent’s armor. The length allowed for the user to generate a lot of leverage and force without slowing down the user or difficulty changing direction. The lance also was an effective first strike weapon. A charge of mounted knights, with 10-foot lance and the force of the horse and the weight of the armor behind it, would easily break through almost any line spread before it.

The most dangerous weapon to this kind of charge though was the bow, as the French learned at the Battle of Crecy. A line of mounted French knights charged the English, only to be met with a rain of arrows and be completely decimated. War arrows, like the ones used then, had an acutely pointed and hard tip that was excellent at either punching through or finding gaps in armor. The bows were most often made of yew, one of the most effective woods for making a bow. The heartwood is very resistant to compression and the sapwood very resistant to tension, giving the force of some of the bows 160 to 200lbs.

Along with a sword, shield, and long weapon of some kind, knights would almost always carry a dagger. There were several options, but a knight would usually choose a rondel, bollock, or quillion dagger.  The medieval armor evolution ended, though, with the introduction of gunpowder. Armor and weapons simply could not stand against the power of a musket barrage. For a while, some weapons like the bardiche and the rapier survived, but soon they too became largely ceremonial or simply worn out of tradition before fading completely. People look down on the past as primitive and unsophisticated, but we must remember the future is built on the past, and the past can never be forgotten.

Citations

·         Dawnson, Timothy George. (2020.)  Armor.  (Leventia site.) https://www.levantia.com.au/byzarmour.html

·         Dawnson, Timothy George. (2020.)  Weapons.  (Leventia site.) https://www.levantia.com.au/byzweapons.html

·         Groeneveld, Emma. (June 1, 2018). Viking Warfare. (Ancient History Encyclopedia site.) https://www.ancient.eu/Viking_Warfare/

·         Williamson, Mitch. (August 14, 2015.) Military of the Byzantines. (Weapons and Warfare site.) https://weaponsandwarfare.com/2015/08/14/the-military-of-the-byzantines/